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From the pages of Threads magazine Cut Up Your Patterns and Add Seams  Get extra style mileage from your favorite patterns by creating new seamsWhen I've spent time fitting a pattern and love the results, I'm not going to waste time looking for a new pattern. Instead, I add seams to the original and redesign the way it looks. Anyone can rework favorite patterns by adding seams. The possibilities are endless, and you don’t need a degree in pattern drafting for success. I’ll show you step-by-step how to do this, then we’ll tour my wardrobe while I explain simple ways to add style lines, develop surface design, and create details on patterns you already know and love. (Unless otherwise noted, all the jackets shown on the slideshow started as the same pattern: Butterick 5941.)
When you have problems achieving a good fit, adding seams often provides a viable solution. But for the most fun, change your patterns for style in the ways I show on the following pages—it lets you be the designer. Redesign your pattern Decide on your garment plan first. Then, trace a copy of your pattern. Finally, cut up the pattern according to your plan, and add seam allowances.  1. Make a plan. Use a photocopy machine to copy and enlarge the schematic drawings from the pattern instruction sheet. The copies are your templates for sketching design possibilities.
 3a. Make new pattern sections. Follow your planning sketches to draw the new seamlines on the traced pattern pieces.  3b. Place hash marks across the new seamlines to indicate notches. Number the sections on both the intact copy and the individual new pieces. As new patterns, these pieces often don’t make sense when seen separately.  3c. Trace each new pattern piece separately.  3d. Use a transparent ruler to add seam allowances before cutting out the pattern pieces. Use new seams to add style lines Enhance seams for any pattern, including dresses, pants, skirts, blouses, and swimsuits. New seamlines can flatter the figure and always create new fitting opportunities.
Add a princess seam. With a curved ruler, draw in the princess style lines (above left). This won’t change the fit or shape of the garment, only the lines. Rotate the bust dart so it disappears into the princess seam. Create a center panel on a straight, darted skirt. Topstitch the seams for added detail or extend the center panel, then shirr the side edges for a fresh, fashionable look (above right).
Create a center seam on front pant legs for a lengthened look. Topstitch the seam for added detail (above left). Divide the back of a garment into sections for a more flattering look (above right).
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