Taunton's Threads - For people who love to sew
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From the pages of Threads magazine Timeless Details, In-depth Take a closer look at how you can capture these vintage fine points At Threads, we've always had a love affair with the finer points of vintage garments. In the August/September 2007 issue (#132), we combed our archives for our top 10 delicious details. We couldn't fit all the pattern and sewing instructions in the allotted magazine pages, so here are those details. Please note that the pattern shapes don't include specific dimensions. We know you'll adjust the sewing tips to fit your body. 
Pleat Inset (c. 1934) Knife pleats at collar, front hem, and sleeve give this otherwise plain coatdress a little pizzazz. To get perfectly shaped, crisp pleats, use a Perfect Pleater (Clotilde.com). After forming the pleats and pinning them in place, machine-stitch 1/4 inch from the raw edges to secure.  Pattern Create a curved opening. An approximately 5-1/2-inch faced opening works well for most sleeves.  
 Scarf Neckline Inset (c. 1930s)This unusual cut-on collar starts at the front, wraps around the neck, and then tucks under itself. The "scarf" section of the pattern should be at least 36 inches long to fall in long, soft folds. You can use a pin to secure it in place as shown. Pattern Blouse front with a “wing.” To create the attached “scarf,” simply extend a V-neck blouse neckline as shown (below right). Make a facing pattern as well.
 Pintucked Leg-O' -Mutton Sleeve (c. 1930s)A simple, tight-fitting sleeve gets shape and drama from a puffed-and-pintucked leg-o'-mutton sleeve. The matching barrel cuff, cut on the bias, further enhances this evening gown. To re-create one or both of these pintucked details, use either purchased prepintucked fabric or sew tucks with a twin needle on a flat length of fabric. Then cut out the pattern pieces. Light- to medium-weight crisp fabric, such as organza or dupioni, is the best choice. Pattern Slash-and-spread to create fullness. Start with a high cap sleeve pattern that fits the arm closely down to the wrist. To create the "puff" at the top of the sleeve, slash-and-spread the pattern as shown. We made a horizontal cut at bicep level to allow for the pintucked fabric. Also create a matching barrel-cuff pattern, if desired.   1. Create an organza support for the sleeve cap.Cut a circle of organza fabric, fold in half, then baste the curved double edge to the top inside sleeve seam allowance. 2. Then gather the top and bottom edges of the sleeve poof. Sew a line of long basting stitches 1/4 inch from the edge. Pull the bobbin thread to gather the fabric. The top edge will need to be gathered to fit into the armscye, and the lower edge to fit the bottom (straight) part of the sleeve. Sew the bottom edge to the straight part of the sleeve and then the top edge into the armscye.  Belt-bag Pocket (c. 1940s) Utility pockets, like these button-on pouches, rose to popularity during World War II when women replaced men in the workforce. You can vary the shape, position, and number of pockets, and hang them from any ready-to-wear belt. Or, better yet, make a matching fabric-covered belt. Pattern Fold and sew. The following pattern is for a basic square bag pocket, as shown at top left in the above illustration. You can adjust the shape as desired for more unusual pockets. The basic pattern, without seam allowances, is 20-1/2 inches long and 5 inches wide, but you can make any size.  1. Finish the short edges and mark the fabric. Serge or zigzag-stitch the two short ends, then chalk-mark the pocket as shown.  2. Fold and sew. Fold the pocket as marked. Sew around the outside edge through all layers, skipping the section marked “open.” (The opening is for the belt to pass through.) Clip any curves, turn and press. Mark and stitch the horizontal lines surrounding the open space through all layers. Add buttons and buttonholes as desired.   Shaped Welt Inset (c. 1940s)The curved welts of this pocket nestle into a dart on one end and a seam or hem on the other. You can make this a true working pocket. Or make it a "false," purely decorative accent by stitching the welts closed and eliminating the pocket bag. Pattern Cut a smooth curve. Slice the pattern from the hem to the dart, as shown. The curve needs to be large enough so the ends meet the edges of the fabric at a right angle.  1. Sew on bias strips. Cut two 1-1/2-inch wide bias strips. Make them a bit longer than the curved edge. The extended ends will be trimmed off later. With right sides together, pin the strips to the edge. Don’t stretch the bias as you pin it in place. Sew 1/4-inch from the raw edge on each curved section. From the right side, press the bias strip away from the garment. Wrap it around the raw edge, and press again.  2. Sew the bias strips together. Position the two curved pieces together face down with folded edges touching. From the wrong side, open the bias strip until you see the folded crease you just pressed. Pin the folds of the two bias strips together. Sew along the fold line. Press the seam open from the wrong side. Trim the seam allowance as needed. 
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