The Key to Vintage Pattern Markings

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From the pages of Threads magazine

The Key to Vintage Pattern Markings

Here's a quick guide to deciphering the perforated symbols on vintage patterns

by Alexandra Reynolds

Perforated Symbols

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In the article, "Working with Vintage Patterns" (Threads #132, August/September 2007), I explain the differences between vintage patterns and patterns we use today. One of the big differences -- and challenges -- is in the format. Devoid of any writing on the tissue, many vintage patterns come instead with perforated markings to identify matching points, grainlines, and other stitching points; however, these perforated symbols can mean different things, depending on the pattern company. To help you figure out these sometimes elusive marks and to get you familiar with the types you'll encounter, here's a guide to some common pattern perforations:

Large circles lined up in pairs with a few inches between them typically indicate the grainline. Large circles alone typically indicate stop-stitching points, button positions, center fronts, or seam allowances with a let-out.
Small, individual circles around the edges of the pattern indicate the seam allowance, and small circles in a series of two or three close together indicate matching points.
Two small circles placed a small distance apart indicate buttonhole placement and length.
Square perforations, prevalent in Vogue patterns, typically refer to the placement of buttonholes.
Triangular perforations, also found often in Vogue patterns, indicate where to match one part of a pattern piece to another.

Also see: Working with Vintage Patterns.

Alexandra Reynolds owns the vintage pattern Web site EvaDress.com, which sells original and reproduction vintage patterns.

An online extra to Threads #132, pp. 47-51
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