Taunton's Threads - For people who love to sew
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From the pages of Threads magazine Understand Turn-of-Cloth Learn what you need to do when fabric takes a curve Place two identically sized fabrics one on top of the other, then roll, bend, or fold them. The top layer appears shorter than the bottom layer and once identical edges no longer match. This is because of the turn-of-cloth -- simply put, an outer curved layer is slightly longer than an inner curved layer. To compensate for the curve, you need to adjust the size of the fabric layers before you start sewing. I'll show you how to determine the amount of extra fabric needed to keep your edges matching and where to add it.
In sewing, many parts of a garment can be influenced by the turn-of-cloth -- center front edges, cuffs, pocket flaps, to name a few -- but it's most obvious in rolled collars and lapels, so those are the examples I'll use to explain how the turn-of-cloth works. Every fabric has different turn-of-cloth requirements. The heavier the fabric, the more turn-of-cloth is required. For the best results, calculate the amount to allow for turn-of-cloth based on the fabric you're using. Once you've applied turn-of-cloth considerations, see how this simple effort pays off. Why does it matter? On a beautifully sewn collar and lapel, the enclosed edges turn neatly under to the wrong side, and the seam is not visible from the "public side" (the side that shows when the garment is worn). If the turn-of-cloth isn't taken into consideration, the upper collar and lapel area of the front facing "steal" some fabric from the under collar and lapel, causing the seams to curl back to the public side.
Don't depend on patterns to supply the turn-of-cloth On blouses and dresses with a rolled collar, commercial patterns generally have only one pattern piece for both the upper and under collar. Turn-of-cloth is not taken into consideration. Even though patterns for tailored jackets and coats often have separate pattern pieces providing extra turn-of-cloth fabric for upper and under collars, it's often not enough nor in the right places.
Most commercial patterns also don't provide turn-of-cloth fabric at the center back of the upper collar, where it is needed most. Shawl collars are notorious for this problem. Facing pattern pieces on tailored jackets and coats generally have some turn-of-cloth built in such as the lapel pattern shown at left, but you need to make sure it's enough for the fabric you're using. Fabric choice makes a difference Even the best patternmakers cannot predict what weight fabric you'll use for the pattern. While you're checking for the right turn-of-cloth, you can also find other pattern errors. I've actually found patterns with smaller upper-collar patterns, which is obviously a patternmaker's error and could lead to sewing disappointments. Understanding turn-of-cloth, checking the pattern, and knowing how to adjust it for your particular fabric will improve the quality of your fashion sewing. Begin by determining fabric amounts Heavier fabric requires more fabric for the turn-of-cloth. Let your fabric tell you how much is enough. Cut two equal rectangles of your fabric approximately the width of the collar at the center back and interface as you will the collar. Pin the layers together along one edge as shown below. Then roll them over your hand and measure the difference that occurs between the free edges. This is the amount needed for the correct turn-of-cloth for this specific fabric. Add this amount to the center back on the upper collar and at the center back of the neckline edge, tapering to zero at the front ends. On light- to medium-weight fabric, 1/8 inch difference between the upper and under collars is usually enough to ensure the enclosed seams stay turned under.
Adjust the pattern for turn-of-cloth Find the extra cloth your fabric needs by trimming the underlayer -- here are two ways: 1. Cut the amount off the pattern. (If your pattern has an upper and under collar, cut two upper-collar pieces.) Use a rotary cutter with a gridded see-through ruler to trim 1/8 inch off three outside edges of one collar piece. Use this smaller piece as the under-collar pattern.  2. Cut the amount off the fabric. Use the upper-collar pattern piece to cut both the upper and under collars. Hold a see-through ruler 1/8 inch inside the cutting lines on the three outside edges and trim along the fabric edges. Do not reduce the neck edge.  Stitch a collar Allow the feed dogs to ease the turn-of-cloth along the edges. First, pin the edges as shown in the photos below, then stitch with the upper collar on the bottom to allow the feed dogs to ease in the excess fabric. If your machine has differential feed, disengage it since it works against you. Begin stitching at the neck edge, across the short end to the corner, easing the excess fabric as you sew. To keep the corners accurate and symmetrical, stitch off the end. Then stitch the other short end using the same principles, starting this time at the outer edge and stitching to the neck edge. Align the center backs and pin together. Do not use any more pins. Let the feed dogs control the ease. Start at one end of the long outside edge and stitch to the other. Note: When applying the collar to the neck edge, I stitch directionally. But on the outside edges of the collar, it's more important to stitch with the larger piece against the feed dogs than to stitch directionally.
Professional tip: Use a narrower seam allowance I usually reduce seam allowances on enclosed seams and neck edges to 3/8 inch wide. This reduced seam allowance makes it easier to match the neckline and collar stitching lines without clipping into the neckline seam allowances. I can stitch faster and more accurately, as well as eliminate grading (trimming seam allowances to stagger the raw edge) entirely for lightweight fabrics and grade only one seam allowance for medium- to heavier-weight fabrics. This is how I adjust for the 3/8-inch seam allowance and provide for turn-of-cloth all in one operation.
Modify facing on lapels |
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