Taunton's Threads - For people who love to sew
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From the pages of Threads magazine Two Takes on Felting Wool Jersey Exercise your creative options by shrinking wool jersey before, or after, embellishing with it
For the innovative stitcher, it's hard to imagine a more provocative material than felted-wool jersey. After a few machine-washings, the knit fibers in any wool jersey or double knit fuse, creating a completely nonraveling, almost leatherlike, yet still light, pliable, and inviting material. There's no need for edge finishes, facings, linings, or seam allowances when sewing with this easily produced fabric, which makes it perfect for a host of quick and inventive construction and appliqué techniques. Felt first or embellish before felting At first, I felted all my wool jersey yardage as soon as I got it home, thinking only of the interesting things I could do with an already-felted fabric. But it wasn't long before I discovered the often more interesting results you can get by manipulating the unfelted fabric in some way before washing it -- stitching on it, wrapping it, slashing it, layering it, and so on. To put these discoveries into context, I'll take you on a tour of four felted-wool garments, describing how I proceeded in each case and suggesting alternatives. But let's begin with the felting itself, and how to factor it into your sewing plans. Wool-felting basics As the felting process does its magic, it shrinks the fabric lengthwise by at least a third, and somewhat less crosswise. Typically, wool jersey yardage is 56 inches wide, but for a felted project I use the yardage recommendations for 45-inch-wide fabric, and buy twice the needed amount, which allows plenty for the project and the samplemaking and experimentation that are involved. Any all-wool jersey or double knit will felt, but the results will vary, depending on the qualities of your fabric, and how many times you wash it. Solid colors are my usual choice, but patterned fabrics can be interesting too.
Three wash cycles are usually enough for me to get felting I like, but it's good to measure your yardage between washings to be sure it isn't shrinking so short you no longer have enough for your project. To get more shrinkage, you may be able to reset and repeat the agitation cycle on your machine. You can add boiling water to raise the temperature (hotter water increases the felting). Skip the detergent after the first wash and bypass the rinse cycle as it usually uses cold water. After each washing put your fabric through a normal hot cycle in the dryer. When you like the looks of your fabric, the felting is done. Steam, don't press Remove or cut off the basting. Then, using a wet press cloth, steam the fabric before cutting; don't touch the felted surface directly with the iron, and be sure to let the fabric cool and dry before you reposition it on the ironing board. During and after construction, keep the iron's soleplate away from the right side of the fabric, so you don't flatten the texture or create shiny marks.
Before you cut into your felted yardage, it's important to have a plan for your construction methods (lapped or conventional seams; facings; hems) and your embellishments if decorative hem edges are involved. I always figure out where I will (or won't) need seam and hem allowances, and mark them on each edge of the pattern before cutting, so I don't have to trim anything later. I use a rotary cutter when cutting all but the most complex shapes, using rulers and other cutting guides for precision, especially when using lapped or butted seams (see Threads No. 103, pp. 58-61 for more on lapped seams), and whenever the cut edge will be exposed. To cut into corners, I use a buttonhole cutter, which looks and cuts like a small chisel, but small sharp, pointed scissors work just as well. If notches are necessary, I cut them extending from the edge, and clip them off when no longer needed. When manipulating the fabric before felting, I measure each piece that will be enhanced, then apply whatever treatment I've chosen to twice the width and length of fabric required. Four felted jackets, and more embelishment ideas Check out the links below for more detailed descriptions of my construction and embellishment strategies, as well as photos of finished garments. If you discover any other neat ways to take advantage of felted wool's wonderful qualities, please post your ideas (and photos) on Gatherings, the discussion forum of Threads magazine. Felting before:
Felting after:
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