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From the pages of Threads magazine The Dowager's Hump Learn the best solution for fitting a rounded upper back A rounded upper back needs extra length at the center back, as well as darts to shape the excess fabric at the neckline. These are both necessary, regardless of the style of your garment, to ensure a comfortable neckline, a smooth-fitting collar, and a hem that doesn't ride up at the center back. Begin by determining your back-waist length. We'll assume that your pattern has already been adjusted, if necessary, to accommodate any variation in your height or waist position from the original pattern. Measure from the base of your neck, where a necklace would naturally fall, to your waist, and compare this measurement to your pattern. If you don't know where the normal neckline is on the pattern, or if the back waist isn't marked, you can find the standard measurement for your size in the back of the catalog for your brand of pattern. The difference between your measurement and the pattern is the amount you need to add.
As you slide up section A, you'll see that the higher you go, the harder it is to keep the section touching the guideline without breaking the paper hinge at section B. If you need the extra length, pop the hinge and let section A move as necessary. The hinge is useful as a way of keeping everything aligned as far as it goes, but it isn't required. After positioning and securing section A at the proper height, pivot and anchor the armhole/section B piece to match section A, so that the adjacent corners are level, as in the drawing just mentioned. As you can see, a dart will have opened up along the second slash line, but it will need to be trued. Lightly pencil in new dart legs about 3-1/2 in. long, then fold the dart as it will be sewn and pressed; with the dart underlay toward center back, trace over the neckline to get the correct seam-allowance shape. If you need to add more than 1-1/4 in., the process is the same as just described, but the dart that will open between sections A and B will be too severe, and you'll want to distribute some of the excess fullness elsewhere. You can do this by any or all of the following means: adding a center-back dart to be absorbed into a center-back seam, adding a shoulder dart and/or ease, or adding length to the back armscye. This last approach is a good idea if you're adjusting by more than 2 in.
If you need to add more than 2 in., slash completely across on line 1, and slide up the entire upper back, moving it up to 1 in. above the slash line. Then slide up section A separately to make up the total adjustment needed, incorporating either or both of the dart distribution options just described, if necessary.
Next, look at the fit in front. It's not unusual for rounded backs to be combined with shortened fronts, particularly above the bustline. If you have horizontal wrinkles across your upper chest, pin out an even tuck from midarmhole to midarmhole. Once you settle on the needed amount, correct your pattern. If the neckline feels a little high in front, lower it by clipping until it's comfortable.
It's important with each of these changes that you don't overfit; just keep the fabric smooth and unstrained across your back. For the same reason, avoid fabrics with a stiff hand; natural fibers that shape easily with steam to follow your curves will combine best with all the seam shaping I've described.
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