Taunton's Threads - For people who love to sew
Sign up for our eLetter for monthly tips and advice right from the editors
 |
|
|
An Online Extra to Threads magazine Producing a Pattern Review An in-depth look into the making of our twice-yearly review of the most fashionable patterns
What am I looking for? Fabric and color, of course. But silhouette, proportion, fit, details, and design lines are what I'm really keying into. Pant widths, blouse necklines, dress and jacket styles, skirt lengths, etc. become the filter I use for choosing which patterns to test for the review. Patterns from near and far For the most part, I include fashionable patterns from each of the major pattern companies (Vogue, Butterick, McCall's, Simplicity, Burda, Neue Mode), and rotate my way around and through the smaller boutique pattern companies (increasingly important as a good source of patterns with nice styling and reliable fit). I contact each pattern company and ask them for information about their new patterns (boutique companies send me their catalogs or copies of their newest patterns, and the "majors" send me sketches of upcoming patterns), then start to assemble a collection for the season. I even shop Internet pattern sites such as www.thesewingplace.com and www.patternshowcase.com, and I also include older patterns every now and then if they fit my fashion criteria.
As I see it, the patterns I choose must appeal to a broad range of sewers across the country, so I look for an assortment that includes styles and sizes suitable for tall, short, average, and plus-size women. I include one pattern that might appeal to the art-to-wear sewer; and something for the beginning sewer. You can also count on me to be seasonal. For Fall/Winter, I include at least one coat pattern, and suits and jackets that can take a person to work, to football games, and to holiday parties. For Spring/Summer, the season of graduations, weddings, vacations, cruises, and picnics, I include a variety of patterns for easy sewing and wearing. Testing, testing, 1, 2, 3 With a stack of patterns to test (as a rule, I test more patterns than the number that actually make it into the article, just in case a pattern or two doesn't work out), I turn to my core database of pattern testers. Primarily, these testers are patternmakers, dressmakers, and very experienced sewers. These talented individuals have great instincts and the ability to troubleshoot pattern glitches, which is important because some patterns we test are in pre-production form (a tracing of one size, usually a pattern size 8, without instructions). To decide which pattern should go to which tester, I refer to a personal profile I ask the testers to fill out; this helps me remember each person's experience, size, style, and pattern preferences. Based on these criteria, I send along a pattern and a two-page Pattern evaluation questionnaire, and I give them at least two weekends to sew up a test garment, study the pattern instructions critically, and fill out the form.
Once the groundwork is laid, it all comes together quickly. I review each evaluation from each tester and decide which patterns are keepers (I already deemed the patterns fashionable, seasonable, and appealing to a range of sewers, but now I make sure the patterns go together as they're supposed to, plus fit well or need only minor modifications). I then study the patterns themselves, and write each pattern review. The last (and very enjoyable) part of the review involves collecting fabric swatches that meet the season's fashion criteria. I send the reviews, the patterns, and the swatches off to Threads, where associate editor Jennifer Sauer adds her expertise to put together outfits from the patterns. The art department at Threads commissions the pretty fashion illustrations and all the schematic drawings; we all look carefully to make sure all the information is correct, the article goes into a layout, and then to the printer. So there you have it: the pattern preview from beginning to end.
|
|
|
