Taunton's Threads - For people who love to sew
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From the pages of Threads Magazine The Bra Dilemma -- Solved! Once you perfect the fit, you can sew your own custom bra again and again For some women, it's easy to find bras that fit in styles they like. But many others aren't so lucky, spending endless time and money in search of that elusive perfect style and fit. And even if they do find it, chances are that the style will be discontinued the next time they shop. (In fact, it's estimated that 85 percent of women who wear bras are wearing the wrong size.) And others of us are just tired of spending so much money on so little fabric.  Just because you want a bra that fits, doesn't mean you have to wear beige. You can fit and sew your own bra to get just the style, size, fabric, and features you want. From left, above, a stretch-satin basic bra resembling a Victoria's Secret classic (Élan B530); a navy polka-dot swimsuit top that's easily adapted from a basic bra; and an orange-lace padded push-up bra that flatters a smaller-busted figure (Élan B540). Well, if any of this sounds familiar, you'll be pleased to find out that making your own custom-fitted bra can be a quick and rewarding project. And rest assured, if you're able to cut accurately and sew a precise 1/4-in. seam, you can make a bra. For the first bra, plan to spend an evening or so. After this one is fitted and finished, you'll find that additional bras take two hours or less. Best of all, once you perfect the fit, you can keep the pattern forever, secure in the knowledge that you've solved one of a woman's trickiest wardrobe problems.
The four elements of a basic bra include a bra band, cups, straps, and a closure (see Anatomy of a bra). Variations in these key elements determine the bra style. A full-band style, for example, offers the most support; it has a continuous band that extends around the body, with the cups set into it (see Styling options). A partial-band style has a band attached at the sides of the cups, with a center-front piece or hook separating them. The bra band may be a single layer or lined.
Straps can be made of strap elastic (less stretchy than regular elastic), nonstretchy strapping, or self-fabric, with or without an adjuster (the most common is a ring-and-slide adjustment). Nonstretchy straps usually have some elastic at the back for ease of movement. Bras close in either the front or back with hooks, and back closures usually have two or three size adjustments. Many sports bras pull on, with no closures at all.
To wire or not to wire -- For maximum shaping and support, an underwire bra is the best choice for most women. The underwire shapes and holds the cup to a fixed diameter, which can benefit even a small-busted woman. Complaints about underwires are due mainly to poorly fitting bras, which can cause pinching and poking wires. Fabric ideas -- You'll see bras sewn from a wide variety of fabrics, including tricot, lace, stretch satin, cotton/Lycra, and all-cotton knits and wovens. When making bras, you have the freedom to choose bright colors, jacquards, polka dots, or plaids, if you like. I suggest starting with a stretch fabric like two-way stretch nylon/Lycra satin, which makes fitting easier and forgives small errors. The essential good fit Let's look at what constitutes proper fit in a bra, which will help when you're measuring and deciding on your size. A well-fitting bra is comfortably snug around the body, with the breasts filling the cups completely--no excess fabric in the cups, and no breast tissue spilling out of the cup at the top, side, or bottom. The bra's center front touches, or very nearly touches, the breastbone. The bra band doesn't ride up in back, and the straps stay in place without slipping or digging into the shoulders. Ideally, the bust level is about halfway between elbow and shoulder, although this may not be practical for a heavy-busted woman. To check the fit, make a sample cup with the pattern and fabric you plan to use, and hold it up to yourself. It should completely cover the breast from the center front to the side, and under the breast to the rib cage, with a little extra all around for seam allowances. Check that the breast fills the cup completely, without bulging at the sides or bottom. Can you pinch any excess fabric at the bust point? If so, make a note of how much and adjust the pattern pieces accordingly. (Two women may have the same rib-cage and full-bust measurements, yet still be different cup sizes. If you have a wide, shallow bust, use a larger cup size and take the fullness out of the cup. For a solution to this and other problems, see Common fitting solutions) Now try the cup on the other breast. Many women aren't symmetrical, so it's important to check both sides. If your left side differs noticeably from your right, make separate pattern pieces for each side and label them. You can really customize the fit with the help of a family member or close friend (you'll need four hands). Hold the fitting cup up to yourself and have your helper hold the underwire against the cup in the correct position. Trace the entire bottom edge of the wire, using a pencil or fabric marker. Take it off and add 3/8 in. to the bottom for the channeling and seam allowance. Get ready to cut and sew Before you begin, read all the instructions for your pattern, put a new size 60/8 or 70/10 universal or ballpoint needle in your machine, and make sure your machine is lint-free for good stitch quality. Test your stitching on a swatch, using a straight stitch of about 12 sts/in. (2.5 cm). For Lycra blends, stretch the fabric slightly as you sew to add a little give to the seam. If your machine skips straight stitches, try a finer thread in the top and bobbin, or use a little silicone lubricant like Sewers Aid on the needle and thread spool. If you still have problems, try another new needle. For skipped zigzag stitches, change to a three-step zigzag, if you have one. When laying the pattern on the fabric, pay special attention to the "grainline" mark. On a pattern designed for knits, this is meant to be placed in the direction of the fabric's greatest stretch, which may be lengthwise or crosswise, depending on your fabric. Your best layout may differ from the one in the pattern's instructions. Because a bra is so fitted, a 1/8-in. cutting or sewing error can throw it off a whole cup size. I find a rotary cutter, mat, and weights to be the most accurate cutting tools. To mark dots and notches, make tiny 1/8-in. clips for notches and use pins to mark dots. Add support for a large bust -- Large-busted women can add support to the lower cup to help lift a heavier bust. Use a double layer of fabric in the lower cup or add a light-to-medium-weight interfacing, like a fusible tricot knit. Or use fusible web to join two layers of fabric for the lower cup. You can interface the entire lower cup (excluding the upper seam allowance), or only the outer bottom portion. [ next ] |
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