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Threads eLetter


From the pages of Threads Magazine

Charles Kleibacker: Celebrating an American Couturier

Enjoy a gallery of garments by one of the few American designers to have made a career for himself by creating hand-constructed garments in the couture tradition

by Anne Bissonnette

For thousands of lucky sewers and fashion students over the past several decades, designer Charles Kleibacker has provided a vivid and enlightening glimpse of the real world of couture fashion, in his roles as workshop leader and designer in residence. As one of the few American designers to have made a career for himself by creating hand-constructed garments in the couture tradition, his experience and perspective are unparalleled. For your enjoyment and inspiration, here are several examples of Kleibacker's work, both from Charles Kleibacker: Master of the Bias, a 2002 exhibit at the Kent State University Museum, and from his personal photo archives.

These three garments from the Kent exhibit demonstrate Kleibacker's insistence that for perfect symmetry in the drape of a bias gown, a central seam is necessary, as in examples 1 and 2. Only when he chose an asymmetrical drape, as in example 3, did he forgo this signature seam.

Evening dress in black and white Bianchini four-ply silk crepe with abstract curvilenear motifs (1973).
 
Long backless evening dress in pale green silk crepe (1979).
Asymmetrically draped evening dress in chestnut-colored light-weight silk jersey (1990).


Among Kleibacker's signature techniques are the creation of thin, strong bias-cut spaghetti straps, as in example 1, and the painstaking easing and right-side basting required to shape a bodice to the figure with absolutely no gaping, as still in evidence on this unfinished gown.

Wrapped hot pink silk gauze blouse (1983).
 
Unfinished long evening dress in midnight blue four-ply silk crepe with long fitted sleeves (1973).


These two fashion shots of Kleibacker originals from his personal archives demonstrate his categorizing of bias fabrics into crisp fabrics that "lift," (left) and soft fabrics that "drip" (right).

For more on Charles Kleibacker's career and techniques, check out the February/March 2002 issue of Threads (#99). In that issue, Anne Bissonette will share highlights of the Kent State University Museum exhibit, which she curated, and David Coffin will recap a weekend spent exploring bias construction techniques first hand with the master himself.

Color photos: Anne Bissonnette; black & white photos courtesy of Charles Kleibacker

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