Taunton's Threads - For people who love to sew
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From the pages of Threads Magazine Widen seam allowances Although bias cuts don't ravel, the fibers on cut edges relax and open up, so even 5/8 in. away from a cut edge isn't an accurate stitching line. To your adjusted pattern pieces, add 1-1/2-in.-wide seam allowances, in addition to the extra ease, on center, side, and shoulder seams. Use 5/8-in. seam allowances at the neck. Always mark stitching lines with thread, tracing paper, or chalk as soon as the fabric is cut, before removing the pattern pieces. Remove excess stretch To prevent bias-cut garments from continuing to stretch as they're worn, it helps to press each pattern section to remove some of the stretch before construction. Pressing simulates the effect of gravity and results in a more stable garment. This step is a lifesaver when working with silky, gauzy, or loosely woven fabrics. After cutting the fabric and removing the pattern, press each piece firmly, gently, and evenly from top to bottom. Now repin the pattern onto the fabric, adjusting seamlines if the piece has grown smaller. Sewing bias seams The key to smooth vertical bias seams that won't pop when the garment is worn is to stretch them as you sew, using a 2.5- to 3-mm stitch. The seam will look rippled after stitching but will press out beautifully. You don't need to stretch as you sew shoulder seams because they're not cut on the true bias, and so don't stretch as much. To assemble the garment, sew center seams first, then fit at the side seams by pinning along the stitching line, wrong sides together, and adjust to get the look you want. After the garment is fitted and sewn, trim seam allowances to 3/4 in. Since bias doesn't ravel, seam finishes are optional. I prefer a pinked edge; the serger can cause rippling and seam show-through. If you need to join a bias edge to a straight-grain edge, sew with the straight grain on top, since it's more stable. The bias layer will feed in easily, and the straight grain will stay the bias edge. To stabilize buttons and buttonholes on a bias-cut garment, add interfacing behind them. Use a strip of straight-grain interfacing in the direction of the buttonhole to keep it from stretching. Finish neck and armhole edges Bias binding or piping gives a fine finish at neck and armhole edges of bias garments. Bias molds smoothly around curves, lies flat, stabilizes edges, and eliminates the need for interfacing. To bind a neck, I use bindings 1/4 to 1 in. wide. For a neat binding on a V-neck top, I recommend this: Sew the shoulder seams first, apply the neck binding, then sew the center-front and –back seams after the neck edge is complete. Corded piping likewise stabilizes the neck and armholes and adds a subtle design detail. To pipe a neck, first make sure that the neck is large enough to slip over the head easily. Prepare the front and back separately, before joining shoulder seams, by staystitching along the seamline, then clip to the stitching every 1/2 in. Serge close to the stitching, which makes it easy to turn and press the edge to the inside. If you don't have a serger, trim the seam allowance to 1/4 in., then stitch the shoulder seams and press. I generally use a lightweight, 1/8-in. filler cord to fill the piping. Prepare piping by covering the cord, then baste and stitch the piping to the garment's edge. Once the neck is finished, you're ready to try the top on again. Pin the side seams, wrong sides together, and do a final fitting before you sew the seams. Bias garments don't wrinkle as easily as straight-grain garments do, but they can "grow" on a hanger, so I always store them folded and flat. Once you become confident about basic bias sewing, cutting, and fitting skills, I know that you'll enjoy expanding your sewing repertoire to include bias garments. And when you do, you'll find that the pleasure of wearing them is the best part.
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