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From the pages of Threads Magazine Choose the Correct Pattern Size You can't rely on your ready-to-wear size The first step to making a garment that fits well is to choose the correct pattern size. This may seem obvious, but it's surprising how many sewers start with the wrong size, then end up making a lot of adjustments to get a good fit. Measurements are key When choosing a pattern size, you need to know some basic body measurements (see Personal measurement chart). I'll tell you how to use these measurements in a moment, but first let me explain why you can't simply rely on your ready-to-wear size when it comes to choosing patterns.
Among the major pattern companies, however, sizing is based on a standard set of body measurements, which are provided on each pattern envelope and at the back of the pattern catalogs (see Pattern companies online). Once you've determined your pattern size by comparing your measurements with these standards, you can purchase that size for any of the company's patterns. But because very few figures will match a pattern company's standard measurements exactly, below are some guidelines for choosing a pattern size. Comparing measurements First if you're unsure of which size category your body type fits into, such as misses', women's, or petite, check your height and back-waist length measurements (see the Personal measurement chart), and compare them to the measurement charts provided on the back of each pattern catalog. Then take your full-bust, high-bust, waist, and hip measurements, and compare them with the standard measurements within that figure category.
When you choose a blouse, dress, or jacket pattern, compare your high-bust measurement with the standard bust measurement on the chart to get the best fit in the shoulder area. It's important to fit the shoulder area first, because this area is harder to alter on a pattern than the bust cup, waist, and hip. When choosing pants and skirt patterns, compare the waist and hip measurements: Your choice will be determined by your hip measurement. If the skirt is full, use your waist measurement to select a pattern size. If your measurements fall between two sizes, consider your bone structure. If you're small-boned, buy the smaller size; conversely, if you're large-boned, buy the larger. So get out a tape measure to find your correct size. In most cases, your pattern size will probably be larger than your ready-to-wear size, but when you start with the right number, fitting is so much easier.
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