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CHOOSING AND USING NOTIONS TIP
Guide to Common Fusing Problems

Fusible interfacings are a staple for today's garment sewers, but you need to choose and use them properly for the best results.

Problem Solutions
Bad Surface/Discoloration: Fabric surface is different after fusing. • Change to another interfacing and/or different adhesive pattern.
Cracking: Fused fabrics don't roll or fold smoothly.

• Change to lighter-weight interfacing and/or different adhesive pattern.
Incompatible Shrinkage: Fashion fabric and interfacing react differently to heat or moisture in fusing, laundering, or dry-cleaning. • Choose interfacing with care requirements similar to fashion fabric.
• Lower fusing temperature and/or time, or use a fusible with a lower temperature adhesive.
• Avoid steam in fusing and/or pressing (especially if working with rayon).
• Preshrink interfacing.
Different Hand: Dramatic change in fabric following application of fusible interfacing, which may be due to heat sensitivity of fashion fabric. • Change interfacing.
Poor Bond: Fashion fabric may appear blistered, or interfacing separates from fabric during or after steaming, laundering, or dry-cleaning.

• Check fusing conditions, making sure to use even temperature and pressure when fusing.
• Change interfacing; finish on fashion fabric may be resistant to adhesive, so try sew-in interfacing.
Strike Back: Adhesive liquefied, which causes surface of interfacing to be shiny and/or sticky. • Lower fusing temperature, time, and/or pressure.
• Change to interfacing with less adhesive, or from one made with polyamide to one with polyester.
Strike Through: Fusible liquefied and seeped through fabric causing bond to be weak, outer shell to be tacky, stiff, or show a color change; adhesive dots to show through fashion fabric; and fabric to stick to iron. • Lower temperature, and/or time, and/or pressure.
• Change to interfacing with less adhesive or one requiring lower temperature.
Ridge/Strings: Ridge or outline of interfacing is visible from RS of fashion fabric, caused by thread/lint trapped between fabric and interfacing. • Clean iron and fabrics before fusing.
• Select lighter-weight fusible or use a sew-in interfacing.

-- (Information courtesy of Freudenberg Nonwovens (manufacturer of Pellon consumer products).


Adapted from "Interfacing: The Inside Essential" by Denise L. Bean, Threads magazine, October/November 2002 (#103), p. 66; Photos: Sloan Howard.

© 2002 The Taunton Press, Inc.





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