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FITTING TIP
To Correct a Gaping Neckline,
Make the Garment Front Narrower
Too much fabric across the upper chest, often a result of forward-thrusting shoulders, will cause a neckline to gap. To correct this problem, measure the front of your body from shoulder point to shoulder point and from armhole to armhole above the bust. Divide each figure in half and compare it to the corresponding dimension on your pattern front (be sure to exclude seam allowances). If the pattern is wider in either or both places, reduce it as shown by the dotted line on the drawing, measuring from the center front and blending the new seamline into the original seamline. Also narrow the back pattern at the shoulder by the same amount, blending into the original armhole seamline.
This alteration may increase the total size of the armhole. Compare the new armhole seamline length to the sleeve cap seamline length. If necessary, lengthen the sleeve cap seamline top to make it 1-1/2 inches longer than the armhole seamline.
If your pattern calls for shoulder pads, first adjust it as described above. Then extend the shoulder point both in width and height by the amount of the pad thickness.
 
-- Karen Howland
Adapted from "Gaping Necklines," Threads magazine, August/September 2002 (#102); drawings: Linda Boston.
© 2002 The Taunton Press, Inc.
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