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FITTING TIP
Key Measurements That Help You to Evaluate a Pattern's Fit
You can always alter a pattern, but to make less work for yourself, start with a pattern whose measurements at the bust and hip are close to what you want. Then turn to these four areas for other quick indications of fit. When you measure the pattern, be sure to measure the size you've chosen and don't forget to exclude the seam allowances
Sleeve cap vs. armhole circumference
On the pattern, note the difference between the length of the sleeve cap and armhole seamlines. The sleeve should be no more than 1 1/2 inches larger than armhole.
Cross back
Find a garment that fits comfortably across the back (bring your arms together as shown in the photo below). Measure the garment back from armhole to armhole at the narrowest point (3 to 4 inches below the neckline). Compare this measurement with the same area on your pattern back.
Shoulder width
Find a garment with a shoulder width you particularly like. Measure the shoulder seam and then compare the length with your pattern shoulder seam.
Crotch length on pants
Measure the crotch of well-fitting pants, marking where the front and back legs meet. Or tie 1/4 inch elastic around your waist, and measure from front waist to back waist, passing the tape between your legs. Lengthen or shorten the tape for comfort, and then compare its length with the combined front and back crotch seamline on your pattern.
-- Allison Page
Adapted from "To Judge a Pattern, Start with Its Cover," Threads magazine, April/May 2002 (#100); photo: courtesy of author.
© 2002 The Taunton Press, Inc.
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