Design Confidently, Live Comfortably
  Drive out dampness Poor drainage coupled with the constant push of groundwater against foundations and slab floors will cause some basements to flood and nearly all to be damp. Severe flooding should be stopped before undertaking any basement remodel; start by consulting an independent home inspector who specializes in these problems. The Aronoffs had their basement professionally waterproofed before the renovation and installed a sump pump in a cabinet. The wood flooring they used is engineered for water resistance (see Resources). But even relatively dry basements can have problems. Temperature and ventilation can go a long way in alleviating dampness, so take a look at your existing HVAC system to see if an upgrade is needed. Both heat and air conditioning can help keep humidity under control. Also, the addition of an integrated dehumidifier, which improves air circulation and dispels moisture, may be worth the cost. The installation of an air-exchange system also helps move moist, stagnant air that promotes mold and mildew. Vented outside, these units bring in fresh air using a fan and filter and are relatively simple to install. Test for toxins This is a good time to have your lower level tested for radon, an odorless, colorless gas and known carcinogen that is present in many basements. If excessive radon is detected, a mitigation system should be in place before any finishing work begins. Carbon monoxide, a toxic gas produced by combustion, may also be an issue. Inspecting the venting on your furnace and installing a CO detector will help alleviate that concern. Keep to code Making sure you meet building code requirements early on will save headaches later. Don't be tempted to skirt them just because a basement is out of sight. Two common requirements that affect basement remodels include egress -- the Uniform Building Code (UBC) requires two approved routes of escape -- and ceiling height, which in most localities must be at least 7 feet. Bathrooms are subject to their own codes, including the provision that they be vented to the outside. Your plumber or building inspector can advise you of requirements in your area. Heating systems located in the basement that draw in air for natural-draft combustion can be starved for that air if sealed off behind walls. This reduces efficiency and increases the chance of exhaust gases venting into the living space. Again, consult local inspectors for furnace clearance and air-space requirements. And finally, the UBC requires at least one smoke detector on the lower level. NEXT: Some Tips for a Better Basement BACK: Make the Connection |
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