Some people plan dinner parties in their head or by paging through cookbooks or magazines for ideas. My approach is to let the market be my muse. And after months of hearty winter produce, the arrival of delicate spring vegetables at my local farmstand offers plenty of inspiration. It’s easy to stroll through the market, eyeing a bunch of asparagus here and a basket of mushrooms there, and before I know it, I’ve got a plan for a simple but lovely dinner for six. That’s what this menu is all about—highlighting what’s fresh at the market, preparing it without too much fuss, and enjoying it with a few friends.
Even if it’s still a bit cool where you live, warmer weather is just around the corner, and you’ll soon see its effects at farmers’ markets or in the produce section of your supermarket. Here’s how I’ve created a menu around some of the fresher and perhaps even locally grown ingredients you’ll come across.
Wild mushrooms are the happy result of plentiful spring rains. I like to sauté them with shallots and fresh thyme and add a little crème fraîche. Then I spoon them on toasts as “a little something” for guests as they arrive.
Garden lettuces are also coming into season. I’m lucky because my husband grows beautiful lettuces in our garden, but you’ll see fine mesclun mixes in most markets. I like to serve these tender greens with garlic chapons, which are toasted crusts of bread that are rubbed with garlic.
Fresh asparagus and new potatoes round out a main course of roasted Cornish game hens. I cook the asparagus as simply as possible, roasting them with olive oil and tossing with lemon juice. And I treat the potatoes with a very light hand as well. I boil small ones (Yukon Golds or Yellow Finns work well) and then toss them with butter, shallots, and chopped fresh chervil, one of my favorite seasonal herbs.
I admit that my choice of dessert has no obvious link to the season. But who’s going to argue with a dish of vanilla ice cream drizzled with an espresso-flavored caramel sauce? Some things are inspirational at any time of year.
Fresh Produce 1 lb. wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles, maitakes, hedgehogs, or morels 4 medium and 1 large shallots 1 small bunch fresh thyme 1 small bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 head garlic 6 large handfuls (about 1/2 lb.) mixed baby lettuces 2-1/4 lb. small (2-inch) new potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn 2 lemons 1 small bunch fresh chervil 2 lb. asparagus, preferably thin spears 1 medium orange 1 small yellow onion
Meat, Eggs & Dairy 3 Cornish game hens 1/2 cup crème fraîche 1 oz. chunk Parmigiano-Reggiano 3/4 cup heavy cream 3 pints vanilla ice cream
Other Groceries 1 baguette 1 crusty, country-style bread (such as Italian batard or levain), at least 3/4 lb. 1 bottle dry white wine, such as Sauvignon blanc or Pinot Grigio Kahlua (optional) 1/2 cup chocolate-covered espresso beans (optional) 1 cup low-salt chicken broth Ground espresso beans for brewing (if you don’t have an espresso machine, pick up a single brewed espresso at a local café just before making the caramel sauce)
Pantry Staples 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1-1/2 sticks unsalted butter 1-1/2 Tbs. honey (preferably wildflower) Crushed red pepper flakes (pinch) 2 bay leaves 1 cup granulated sugar 3 Tbs. sherry or red-wine vinegar Kosher salt Black peppercorns
Up to a week ahead Make the caramel sauce
The night before Marinate the hens. Wash the lettuce and refrigerate, covered with a damp towel. Clean the mushrooms and refrigerate, covered with a damp towel
In the afternoon Make the mushroom topping. Make the chapons. Cut the bread for the toasts. Trim the asparagus. Peel the potatoes and cover with water in a pot.
About 30 minutes before guests arrive Mince the shallots and combine with the vinegar for the salad. Mince the shallots and combine with the lemon for the potatoes. Set the butter out to soften for the potatoes. Brush the baguette slices with oil. Put the hens on a baking sheet and leave at room temperature.
Soon after guests arrive Put the hens in the oven. Finish the Wild Mushroom Toasts.
Before serving each course Toss the salad. Make the pan jus for the hens. Boil the potatoes. Roast the asparagus.
Wine Choices
The dishes in this spring meal call for light, vibrant, youthful whites with juicy fruit and mouthwatering acidity and light-to-medium-bodied reds without a lot of oak or tannin. With the salad, serve a white such as Albariño or Sauvignon Blanc. I recommend the 2005 Vionta Albariño ($13) or the 2005 Valminor Albariño ($14), both from the Rias Baixas region of northwest Spain; or if you prefer Sauvignon Blanc, look for the 2006 Babich ($14) from the Marlborough region of New Zealand or the 2005 Dry Creek Vineyard Fumé Blanc ($13.50) from California’s Sonoma County. For the main course—or if you want just one wine to serve with the entire meal—Pinot Noir is a delicious choice. Look for the 2005 A to Z ($18) or the 2004 Andrew Rich ($25). Both are from Oregon, and both have appealing red-berry fruit and soft tannins.
—Tim Gaiser is a contributing editor and a master sommelier.
photo: Scott Phillips
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