Cooking a holiday dinner often comes with a lot of emotional baggage. Everyone has a different idea about the right thing to serve: "It's got to be goose with chestnut stuffing," or "My mother always made roast beef." I don't want to get caught in that tangle of traditions any more than I want to spend my whole holiday chopping and peeling. So, I've started a new tradition: brunch. I look forward to family and friends arriving in the late morning and relaxing with a glass of champagne cocktail. The kids come in the kitchen to sneak a bit of coffee cake, and I distract them by asking for help whisking the eggs. In short, it's fun. And by preparing ahead of time, I have as much fun as my guests.
If want to enjoy yourself when you entertain, choose a menu that holds up under delay. You don’t want to miss gift-giving because you’re watching over a soufflé. Easy breakfasts like scrambled eggs and pancakes are popular, but they’re not very festive and are only at their peak when served immediately.A frittata, on the other hand, is an infinitely flexible breakfast dish. Basically, it’s an omelet you start on the stove and finish in the oven. While I like serving frittatas still warm and puffed from the oven, they taste great at almost any temperature. The frittata is complemented by equally forgiving dishes: Red Anjou pears and arugula wrapped with prosciutto, citrus-spiced nuts, and a tender buttermilk coffee cake.
Make two shopping lists: one for staples you can buy a week ahead, and another for items that must be purchased only a day or two before the brunch.
Perishables (buy two days before the party) 1 lb. new potatoes 1 bunch arugula 1 large red onion 2 Anjou or Comice pears 1 medium Granny Smith or Golden Delicious apple 1 bunch fresh thyme 1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 cups fresh orange juice 12 thin slices of prosciutto (about 1/3 lb.) 3 oz. Gruyere or other mild cheese 15 large eggs 1-1/4 cups buttermilk
Staples (buy one week ahead) 1 orange 2 lemons 1/2 lb. pecan halves 1/2 lb. blanched almonds 1 cup walnut halves 1 jar sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil 2 cups cranberry juice cocktail 1 bottle brut sparkling wine 2 sticks unsalted butter 1 Tbs. olive oil 2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1-1/3 cups (packed) dark brown sugar 1/2 cup granulated sugar Confectioner’s sugar (for dusting cake) 2 tsp. vanilla extract 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda 1/4 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger 2-1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon 1-1/2 tsp. ground coriander 1-1/4 tsp. ground mace 1-1/4 tsp. ground ginger 1/4 tsp. cayenne Ground nutmeg (pinch) Kosher salt Table salt Black peppercorns
One week ahead: Shop for staple items. Make the spiced nuts; store them in an airtight container.
Two days ahead: Shop for perishables and other last-minute items. If you’re serving coffee, buy fresh beans. Bring out all serving pieces. Make extra ice for drinks.
One day ahead: Prepare the frittata filling. Measure out all other ingredients (except the eggs) and keep refrigerated. Prepare the streusel coffee cake topping, cover and refrigerate. Measure out the dry ingredients for the coffee cake. Cover and keep at room temperature Mix the juices for the cocktail in a pitcher and refrigerate. Chill the sparkling wine. Set the table.
The day of the brunch: Make the coffee cake first thing in the morning. Put the nuts in serving dishes. Prepare the prosciutto-wrapped pears. Make the frittata. Pour yourself a champagne cocktail and relax.
photo: Mark Thomas
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