Beyond Champagne

The holidays are here, peak season for sparkling wine and the perfect time to discover the world of bubblies beyond Champagne. (By law, only the sparkling wines made in the Champagne region of France can be called Champagne.) It's a bigger world than you might have thought. From New Mexico to Australia, sparkling wine is made all over the globe, in a range of appealing styles and from numerous different grape varieties. Many of these non-Champagne sparklers are outstanding values and easy to find. And, more to the point, they're deliciously versatile, as good for apéritifs as they are with hors d'oeuvres or a sit-down meal. Here's a guide to some of the more delightful -- and unusual -- sparkling wines.

There's a lot to choose from when it comes to dry sparkling wines, and all of them cost less than a bottle of Champagne. The following wines are dry in style and excellent served as an apéritif or paired with lighter seafood and shellfish appetizers.

Cremant d'Alsace hails from the warm sunny region east of the Vosges Mountains in eastern France. The wines are based on the Pinot Blanc grape with lesser amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Look for nonvintage wines from Charles Baur or Pierre Sparr. Their crisp green apple, citrus, and toast flavors make them quintessential apéritif wines.

Blanquette de Limoux, also from France, is one of the world's great -bubbly -secrets. The -sparkling wines of Blanquette actually predate Champagne by almost 200 years. The wines are made in and around the town of Limoux from the local Mauzac grape. Try a Cuvée Jean Philippe or a Saint Hilaire Brut. Both are easy drinking and offer vibrant pear-peach flavors.

Cava is one of the world's most versatile sparkling wines and a good value. It's produced in several parts of Spain from the Paralleda, Macabeo, and Xarello grapes. Try the nonvintage Segura Viudas Aria Estate Brut or a Marques de Gelida Cava Brut Exclusive Reserva. Both are crisp and refreshing.

Not all sparkling wines are dry. In fact, quite a few have a pleasing touch of sweetness, and the combination of residual sugar and crisp balancing acidity makes these off-dry wines incredibly food-friendly.

Moscato d'Asti is a gently sparkling, off-dry wine made from the Muscat grape in the Piedmont region of Northwest Italy. Moscato d'Asti is low in alcohol (just 5.5%), and offers spicy peach and strawberry flavors that make it a wonderful apéritif and a perfect match with spicy-hot Asian starters. It's also delicious served with fresh fruit desserts. Look for a La Spinetta or a Bruno Ceretto, I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano.

Sparkling White Zinfandel is another off-dry bubbly that's just starting to gain popularity. The juicy strawberry-cherry fruit and vibrant citrus notes make these wines immediately appealing and easy to sip. Try the nonvintage Beringer Sparkling White Zinfandel.

Believe it or not, there are actually sparkling red wines, and they're worth seeking out. Australians have been making sparkling Shiraz (Syrah) for decades, and the combination of ripe black fruits, crisp acidity, and bubbles is irresistible. Try the nonvintage Seaview or the nonvintage Hardys. Both make delightful apéritifs and also do well served with homey meat dishes like burgers and meatloaf. Be sure to serve this wine -- and all sparkling wines -- chilled in Champagne flutes, which have a shape that helps preserve the bubbles longer.