Kneading develops good texture
You can make flatbreads from almost any leavened wheat flour dough; much of what distinguishes one flatbread from another is the flattening and shaping technique, not the dough itself.
To make the dough, we start with lukewarm liquid, dissolve active dry yeast in it, and then begin adding flour gradually, stirring always in the same direction. This unidirectional stirring helps develop long strands of gluten. During kneading, these strands get folded over and over to create the complex cell structure of the dough, which then expands and firms up during baking. Good cell structure is important for good texture, whatever the shape (or height) of the final bread.
When you've added about three-quarters of the flour, the dough will become too stiff to stir, at which point you'll turn it out onto a floured work surface to start kneading. A good tip: Wash and dry the dirty bowl before you start kneading because, after ten minutes, the dough bits harden and are then difficult to scrub off. Make sure your kneading surface is solid and just below waist high, or whatever height is comfortable.
As you knead, add the remaining flour by keeping your work surface well dusted rather than by adding it directly to the dough. The dough will pick up as much flour as necessary as you knead.
The flour amounts in these recipes are just a guide. The more flour you add, the stiffer the dough and the drier the bread will be. Less flour and the dough will be softer and stickier. A firm dough is easier to handle than a very soft one, so beginners might want to take that route, but both will make delicious flatbread. Don't worry about getting it exactly right—flatbreads are very forgiving—and just knead until the dough feels smooth and slightly moist, not too sticky.
We like to give our doughs a long, overnight rise at a cooler temperature (below 75°F) rather than a short rise in a warmer place because the slower fermentation produces more flavor. If a quick, two-hour rise suits your schedule, however, that's fine, too.
You can make the dough ahead, let it rise, and then keep it refrigerated for a day or two. If you're not ready to bake the breads once the dough has risen, push the dough down, put it in a plastic bag, and tie off the neck, leaving room for expansion. Refrigerated, it will keep for up to three days, though it's easier to handle if baked within the first 24 hours. You can also freeze dough in a sealed plastic bag for up to three months. Doughs stored in the fridge or freezer are often quite wet, so knead briefly on a well-floured surface before cutting and shaping.
One or two hours before you plan to bake, remove the dough from the refrigerator and heat the oven. To simulate a tandoor, the baking tiles or baking stone must be completely heated, and this will take about twenty minutes beyond the time it takes for the oven to reach its temperature.
Like any kneaded dough made with wheat flour, these doughs are elastic and will initially resist stretching. But if you let the divided pieces rest for ten to twenty minutes, they'll be less resilient.
Once you start flattening a piece of dough, don't turn it over. You want to avoid creating a floury surface on the bread. Flour the pieces well before you start shaping and keep the work surface lightly floured; if the dough sticks, detach it with a dough scraper or spatula. When using a rolling pin, roll lightly from the center out, giving the dough a quarter turn after each stroke to make an even round and keep the bread from sticking.