Our neighbors think we're a little crazy. Night and day, rain or shine, smoke wafts from our backyard. "The Middletons," they say, "are grilling again." We like to grill so much that it's not uncommon for us to cook an entire meal on the grill. We have our favorite meats (pork tenderloin, skirt steak, marinated chicken breasts, shrimp kababs) and our favorite vegetables (thick slabs of red onion, juicy ears of corn, big, meaty asparagus spears, red, yellow, and orange bell peppers cut in half). And then, to round out the meal, we grill red potatoes, or Yukon Golds, or even Idahoes, using a few different methods we've learned to rely on.

At first, it might seem tricky to grill a potato successfully, but fortunately potatoes are incredibly accommodating. The delicious flavor and texture of a grilled potato is a great reward for learning to manage one tiny problem: getting the potato cooked on the inside before it burns on the outside.

To be sure that you've got a grilled potato that's cooked through, follow one of the methods I've detailed in the technique and recipe sections that follow. Once you've chosen your method, you'll have just three more quick decisions to make: what kind of potato to use, what shape to cut it in, and how to season it. Try the suggested methods that follow, and soon you'll be perfecting your own versions of delicious grilled potatoes—as habit-forming as the best mashed or roasted.

Technique #1: Par-cook potatoes before grilling for better control

It may seem like extra work, but I like to partially cook (by simmering) most potatoes before grilling them (for the recipe, see Grilled Potatoes #1). Here's why: First, this method cuts down on the final cooking time on the grill, so I can put the potatoes on just as I'm finishing up with the meat or corn or whatever else I've been grilling. Since the potatoes are already cooked most of the way through, they only need to be seared over direct heat to create a golden brown crust. I'm mostly looking for visual clues to see when the potatoes are done, so I don't have to pay as much attention to timing them or to moving them to indirect heat to finish cooking. I also don't have to cover the grill to ensure that the potatoes cook all the way through, so I can be grilling a steak at the same time. If I'm entertaining, I can hand off the grilling to someone else, knowing they just have to look at the potatoes to know when they're done.

I especially like to precook dense-fleshed potatoes like Red Bliss and Yukon Gold before grilling them. Using a wet-heat method to cook these potatoes before exposing them to the dry heat of the grill means they have almost the texture of french fries by the time they're done: golden on the outside, fluffy and cakey on the inside.

I always cut the potatoes before I simmer them (I like slices, but quarters and wedges work, too), and I let them drain well after simmering. I can do this ahead of time and leave them at room temperature while fixing the rest of dinner. Then, I coat the potatoes well with either oil and herbs or a combination of a little bit of mayonnaise and mustard, since the fats help keep the moisture inside the potatoes when they hit the grill, and also help to keep the tender flesh from sticking. While I think it works best to season your potatoes before you grill them (see "Seasoning potatoes for the grill," below), that doesn't mean you can't season them afterward, too, or use them in other recipes, such as Grilled Potato, Corn & Red Onion Salad over Arugula.

Technique #2: Cook potatoes from start to finish on the grill

If you don't want to bother precooking your potatoes, you don't have to. You can cook them start-to-finish on the grill by using a combination of direct and indirect cooking (for the recipe, see Grilled Potatoes #2). When building your charcoal fire, be sure to bank the coals to one side so that you'll have a hotter side and a cooler side. On a gas grill, heat one side of the grill to medium high; keep the other side on medium low. When planning what else you might want to cook on the grill you'll need to keep in mind that you'll be covering the grill, and using it for a little longer when cooking potatoes this way.

I like this method for wedges of Idaho potatoes. When they sear on the hot grill, their starch seems to seal in their inherent moisture, and the result is crispy outside and flaky inside. I don't like this method quite as well for red and yellow potatoes, unless I'm planning to use them in a salad (see Grilled Potato, Corn & Red Onion Salad over Arugula) when they come off the grill. Their slightly dry texture and charry flavor works well when dressed up with a vinaigrette and served on leafy greens.

Technique #3 – Wrap potatoes in foil to keep them moist and to blend flavors

One of the easiest and most delicious ways to cook potatoes on the grill is to toss them with a lot of the same goodies you might use for roasted potatoes and wrap them tightly in foil (for the recipe, see Grilled Potatoes #3). Put the package on the grate directly over the heat, cover the grill, and in 40 minutes you have a delicious side dish.

Grilled this way, the potatoes steam to a moist but firm texture and bathe in the juices of roasting aromatics. Garlic, onions, and peppers practically melt into the potatoes for extra flavor. And if your coals are hot enough, the potatoes closest to the outside of the package will have nicely charred edges, too. The package can sit off the grill, unopened, for up to 15 minutes, while you grill the main course.

A few things to keep in mind: First, before wrapping the potatoes in the foil, spread them out so that the pile is an even thickness, about 1-1/2 inches deep. This will let more potatoes come in close contact with the heat of the fire, ensuring even cooking. Second, mound the coals so that they're 5 to 6 inches below the center of the grate (but no closer). Then set the package directly over the hottest spot. Ideally, the potatoes on the bottom will be just beginning to char when they're flipped after 20 minutes. Last, be sure to cover the grill completely (leave the top and bottom vents open) so the potatoes bake in the oven-like atmosphere. You can cook foil-wrapped potatoes on a gas grill, too, but you may have to cook them longer (or heat the grill to high).

When you first try this method, you might want to use slightly shorter cooking times and check the potatoes (unfold the foil with tongs; the steam will be hot enough to burn). If they aren't quite done, rewrap them and grill for a few more minutes. If they're too charred but not done in the middle, put them back on, away from the coals, and cover the grill