Tall vs. stocky
As we set out to evaluate stockpots, we noticed one significant difference among those on the market—shape. Some are tall and narrow, others as wide as (or wider than) they are tall. Traditionally, a stockpot is deeper than it is wide so that simmering water can bubble up through bones, meat, fish, or vegetables, extracting and infusing flavors over a period of time without much evaporation. Yet, after lengthy testing, we didn't find a difference in flavor or yield of broths made in the wide stockpots versus those made in the tall, narrow varieties, so we have included both here.
The two styles of pots differ mainly in ease of use. We found that we preferred the wider pots, because their lower sides made it easier to monitor, manipulate, and stir foods. With the taller pots, using tongs to turn pieces of browning meat required plunging a hand into a deep, narrow vat of splattering fat. And because they're so tall, they're hard to see into.
We tested eight stainless-steel stockpots between 11-1/2 and 12-1/2 quarts in size. Our four top picks range in price from $130 to $395. You can pay less for a stockpot and still be able to make a reputable broth; most important are your ingredients. But if you're inclined to invest in a pot, spending a little more on one of our favorites will deliver controlled browning, so you'll end up using it more often.
